Cracking Coconuts
The latest Islas Audio Companion, and everything you can do with a coco
Del escritorio de Von:
For all my audio fans—we’re back with the latest installment of the Islas Audio Companion. If you haven’t listened yet, I’m reading parts of my latest book, Islas, adding additional context and tips, and interviewing my amazing contributors. This week, we’ll hear from Brigid Washington, my Trinidadian sister who taught me about the dynamism of Caribbean flavor. Also, my favorite recipe for lemony, coconutty red lentils from my latest Food & Wine feature.
De corazón,
Von
Islas Audio Companion | No. 5
In this latest installment of the Islas Audio Companion, I continue building the Resilient Pantry with another special guest—Brigid Washington, an extraordinary writer, journalist, chef, and cookbook developer. She was also an Islas recipe developer, contributing her original recipes and honed Caribbean palate to the book. She wrote an essay that is essentially a love letter to the coco—one of the most adaptive and resilient foods on earth. In this conversation, she reads sections from her essay, peppered with personal stories and additional tips not included in Islas.
For folks who are new to La Piña, I’m reading excerpts from my new book Islas: A Celebration of Tropical Cooking. Here’s part 1, part 2, part 3, and part 4. I’ll continue sharing the audio companion free for all La Piña subscribers for the time being. But please consider signing up for a paid subscription, which will enable me to continue to compensate the brilliant, creative people who lend me their talents.
“The Giving Tree: Endlessly adaptable and astonishingly resilient, coconut connects the world’s oldest island cuisines”
In my latest article for Food & Wine, I continue to grow my coconut knowledge. I learned that coconuts originated from Indonesia, and their dispersal across Pacific, Indian, and Atlantic oceans reflects the prowess of Austronesian seafarers. Navigating hazardous seas in wooden canoes, they transported and cultivated coconuts in places where they flourished and thrived, leading to their global proliferation and extensive use across disparate cultures. You can read the full essay in the print Food &Wine May travel issue.
I also adapted five Islas recipes available online, including Beef Satay with Mushrooms and Coconut-Peanut Sauce, Mas Riha (Maldivian Tuna Curry), Chicken Inasal (Filipino Grilled Chicken), and Kelaguen Uhang (Coconut Pickled Shrimp with Chiles) Below is my favorite in the collection—a zesty dish of red lentils, coconut, chilies, and lemon, an adaptation of a chicken dish from Madagascar.
Red Lentil Akoho Sy Voanio (Malagasy Coconut Lentils)
Originally appeared in Food & Wine magazine, May 2024
Active Time: 45 mins
Total Time: 1 hour 5 mins
Servings: 4 to 8
2 tablespoons refined coconut oil
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped (about 2 cups)
3 plum tomatoes, peeled and chopped (about 1 cup)
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped (about 1 tablespoon)
1 tablespoon grated peeled fresh ginger (from 1 [2 1/2-inch] piece)
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1/2 pound dried red lentils (about 1 1/4 cups), rinsed and drained
1 1/2 cups water
1 1/2 cups well-stirred unsweetened coconut milk
2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon black pepper, plus more for garnish
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper, plus more to taste (optional)
Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, for garnish
Steamed white rice, for serving
Heat oil in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium. Add onion; cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly golden, 8 to 10 minutes. Add tomatoes, garlic, ginger, and turmeric; cook, stirring often, until tomatoes break down, 5 to 7 minutes.
Add lentils, 1 1/2 cups water, coconut milk, salt, lemon zest and juice, black pepper, and cayenne pepper, if using, to pan; bring to a simmer over medium, stirring occasionally.
Reduce heat to low; cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until lentils are tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Season to taste with additional salt and cayenne pepper, if desired. Garnish with parsley and additional black pepper. Serve with steamed rice.
Where I’ll be …
Save the dates!
Friday, September 13 · 5:30 PM EST - Sabor y Cultura Birmingham, AL
Featured chef for annual HICA Birmingham Sabor y Cultura fundraiser, tickets starting at $750.
Thursday, September 19 · 6:00 PM EST - Essex Market, NY
Cooking demo and book-signing at Essex Market, Lower East Side, NY.
November 6-8 · World of Flavors Conference and Fest, Napa Valley, CA
Cooking demos and conversations at the Culinary Institute of America’s 26th annual World of Flavors Conference & Festival, Napa Valley, CA.
Saturday, October 5 · 11 AM EST - Decatur Book Festival, Decatur, GA
Cooking demo and book-signing at the Decatur Book Festival, Decatur, GA
Saturday, October 12 - Cookbooks & Convos, Philadelphia, PA
Cooking demo and book-signing at Cookbooks & Convos.
Writer: Von Diaz | Editor: KC Hysmith
Islas Audio Companion: Sound Design, Jud Esty Kendall
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