Rice and the Resilient Pantry
Listen to the Islas Audio Companion, and my interview on The Splendid Table
Del escritorio de Von:
Dear Friends,
I’ll be taking a break from this newsletter for the next couple weeks, traveling to NYC to present at the Cherry Bombe Jubilee, then back to my hometown for an event at the Atlanta History Center. Thank you, as always, for your interest in my work, and support for Islas.
De corazón,
Von
Islas Audio Companion | No. 4
In this latest installment of the Islas Audio Companion, I continue building the Resilient Pantry with another special guest—Jenn de la Vega, a brilliant cookbook developer and caterer, and one of the recipe developers for Islas. She wrote an essay and primer on rice, which is one of the most essential ingredients for island communities. In this conversation, she’ll read sections from her brilliant essay, peppered with additional tips and tricks not included in Islas.
For folks who are new to La Piña, I’m reading excerpts from my new book Islas: A Celebration of Tropical Cooking. Here’s part 1, part 2, and part 3. For the first few weeks, I’ll be sharing the audio companion for all La Piña subscribers. But starting soon, it will be exclusive for paid subscribers. Please consider signing up for a paid subscription, which will enable me to continue to compensate the brilliant, creative people who lend me their talents.
Listen to me and Francis Lam on the The Splendid Table!
We are looking at food stories from different cultures this week. First, documentarian and journalist Von Diaz joins us to talk about her latest book, Islas: A Celebration of Tropical Cooking.
She writes about island cuisine from all over the world and talks about her academic field research, the connections she feels when she is on an island, and the unique dishes she cooked and tasted for her book research. She found commonality among the islands in their cooking techniques, from grilling to smoking and marinating, and shares a delicious, iconic island recipe for CHamoru Barbecue Chicken with Juanita’s Fina’denne’. Then, best-selling author and Jewish food authority Joan Nathan joins us to talk about her latest book, a memoir My Life in Recipes, Food, Family and Memories. Joan chronicles her start in food, the people she met along the way, her passion for elevating the home cook and her devotion to the regular ritual of sitting down together for a meal.
My Q&A for Delish, and recipe for CHamoru BBQ Chicken
This adaptation of a classic CHamoru marinade has become my go-to for grilling chicken and pork. It comes together quickly and packs a punch; soy sauce and lemon deeply penetrate the meat, which is then infused with abundant garlic and ginger. Start your marinade the morning of your cookout instead of the night before, as this soy-heavy marinade is potent. Once you begin cooking, baste the chicken with the remaining marinade several times to glaze and char, being sure to let the marinade cook before taking the meat off the grill.
Juanita's Fina'denne':
A staple of CHamoru cuisine, this soy-based dipping sauce is flavored with lemon, green onions, and fiery chiles. You can replace the vinegar with additional lemon juice if desired. This recipe was inspired by Juanita Blaz.
Excerpted from Islas: A Celebration of Tropical Cooking by Von Diaz, © 2023. Published by Chronicle Books. Photographs © Lauren Vied Allen
YIELDS: 4 - 6 serving(s)
PREP TIME: 20 mins
TOTAL TIME: 4 hrs 20 mins
CAL/SERV: 783
Ingredients
MARINADE
10 to 12 large garlic cloves, finely chopped
1/4 c. (50 g). finely grated peeled fresh ginger
1 c. (240 mL.) soy sauce
1/2 c. (120 mL.) fresh lemon juice
1/4 c. (60 mL.) white wine vinegar
1/3 c. (65 g.) light brown sugar
1 c. (104 g). finely chopped green onions, white and green parts
FINA'DENNE'
3/4 c. (180 mL.) soy sauce, plus more as needed
1/2 c. (24 g.) thinly sliced green onions or shallots
3 to 6 red bird’s eye chiles
1/2 c. (80 g.) halved cherry tomatoes
1/4 c. (60 mL.) coconut vinegar or apple cider vinegar
1/4 c. (60 mL.) fresh lemon juice
CHICKEN
3 to 4 lb. bone-in, skin-on chicken pieces, dark or white meat
Steamed rice, for serving
Directions
MARINADE
In a medium bowl, combine the garlic, ginger, soy sauce, lemon juice, vinegar, brown sugar, and onions and stir well to incorporate.
FINNA'DENNE
In a medium bowl, combine all ingredients and mix well. Taste and adjust soy sauce and chiles as desired.
CHICKEN
Step 1
Put the chicken pieces in a large resealable bag or airtight container, then pour the marinade over and seal the container. Marinate for at least 3 hours or up to 12.
Step 2
Remove the chicken from the marinade and place the pieces on a rimmed baking sheet. Reserve the remaining marinade.
Step 3
Bring a grill to medium heat, then cook the chicken for 25 to 40 minutes, turning often to avoid burning, and brushing with the reserved marinade a few times. Be sure to cook the last application of marinade before taking the chicken off the grill.
Step 4
Tent the chicken with aluminum foil and let it rest for 5 to 7 minutes before eating. Serve with steamed rice and fina’denne’ on the side.
TIP: If you don’t have access to a grill, this recipe is easy to prepare in the oven. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C), then line a large rimmed baking sheet with foil. Arrange the chicken in an even layer, bone-side down. Cover with foil and bake for 35 minutes. To finish, brush with reserved marinade, turn the heat to a high broil, and place the baking sheet directly under the broiler. Watching carefully, and brushing with marinade a few more times, broil for 5 to 10 minutes until the chicken reaches your desired char.
Where I’ll be
Even more events on the calendar!
Wednesday, April 20 · 11 AM - 6 PM EST - Cherry Bombe Jubilee, NYC
Tickets are SOLD OUT, but you can join the waitlist here.
Wednesday, May 1 · 7 PM EST - Atlanta History Center
In conversation with Angie Mosier, the event includes a book signing and samples from Islas.
Saturday, May 25 · 11 AM EST - Fearrington Village, NC
A book signing and conversation featuring Von Diaz with Lauren Vied Allen and Brigid Washington
Thursday, June 13 · 7 PM EST - Archestratus Books in Brooklyn, NY
Book signing and conversation.
Saturday, June 15 · 10 AM - New York Botanical Garden, Bronx, NY
Opening Ceremony for the DIASPORA African American Garden at the New York Botanical Garden.
Friday, June 21-Sunday, June 23 - Cookbook Fest in Napa Valley
Book-signing, talks, and cooking over open fire.
Saturday, June 29 · 3 PM EST - A Capella in Atlanta, GA
Book signing and conversation.
Writer: Von Diaz | Editor: KC Hysmith
Islas Audio Companion | Sound Design: Jud Esty-Kendall
Un Poquito Mas …
When Andrew Zimmern said Islas was going to be “the hot book for the summer”!
😲🔥 Read more here on his Substack, Spilled Milk.
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